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In an initial stand to support their own cultural values, there was a specific statement in the information sheet for visitors that tipping was against their cultural values and would the fishermen please refrain from offering or giving tips. To their credit, that lasted a good 5 years! And once out on the lagoon, one had the entire visible lanscape to oneself, miles of untouched flats, unafraid fish. The bonefishing was easy, the trevally, in 4 species) numerous. It was an adventure. In many ways it still is. But those who experienced Christmas in the "old days" miss them and find the changes disheartening. Now the shower handles don't bite back, the waitresses (the same ones!) speak a little english and actually get your order correct. The trucks run slowly through the puddles and no longer stall. And tipping is accepted, if not expected. But the real changes have occured out on the flats. Now, anyone and everyone who can get from Tarawa to Christmas has come or wants to. The native population has exploded and these people want, at least, to eat! And they are not above eating bonefish! Christmas was too, ah..., virginal to stay that way very long. In the last 20 years I have heard of several schemes to build big destination hotels, and even a proposal that the Japanese, in more flush economic times, wanted to lease, if not buy, the whole island to use as a space/missle launch center. On one trip there was a contingent of 10 professional ornithologists doing a bird survey to document the importance of Christmas internationally as a pelagic seabird nesting site and to lobby against development. I have been to Christmas 6 times, the last time in the COOL of El Nino (at least there, in the central Pacific). The changes were so dramatic that it hurt. I was just getting back into photography then, so I really haven't got the pictures that I want of Christmas. I could spend a month or more there with just a camera. Hey, now THAT's an idea. |
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